Heroscape to DDM re-base guide

We realize that just adding a few rules in the floor rules legalizing re-based Heroscape™ miniatures may not be enough for everyone. So we asked our monthly repaint artist (Australian Megan Smith) to write a guide on re-basing miniatures. And she finished her article in time, because those clear elementals are soon available in stores near you! Megan, the floor is yours!

Re-basing Heroscape™ minis for DDM

(or, how to be able to play with your beautiful clear elementals)

This article is intended for people who have never modified or re-based minis before. If all you need is: “Remove the Heroscape™ base, add a DDM sized base.”, then you probably won’t gain a lot from reading it. Just be aware of the line in the Floor Rules that says if you reuse a DDM base, you need to remove the name of the original mini. This guide is a very basic description of 2 ways to do it (and some advice about tools). Heroscape™ miniatures are attached to their bases with pegs. The 2 methods we discuss involve either using, or removing them.

Method 1: Remove the pegs!

Step 1. Read.

Read the section of the Floor Rules (currently Appendix B3), to check the actual rules, and the list of legal minis.

Step 2. Gather some supplies.

1. Heroscape™ mini(
   
   Rather obvious, I’d think: to re-base them, you need some Heroscape™ miniatures. This guide uses 2 minis that aren’t legal for DDM, because I didn’t own any legal ones while I was writing this guide… but the method of re-basing will work for any of them.
   
2. Bases
   
   I find it easiest to use DDM bases cut from some of my 20 or so spare Kuo-Toa, but many mini manufacturers make empty bases you can buy. For mediums you are looking for 1”/25mm and for larges you are looking for 2”/50mm. If you are going to reuse a DDM base, it is easier to cut off if there’s not too much connecting the mini and the base (so small feet are better than big ones).
   
3. Craft knife (with sharp blade)
   
   Easily available lots of places (and for much cheaper than ones specifically made and sold by mini manufacturers). Remember it is very sharp, and to always cut away from you (and preferably towards the cutting mat).
   
4. Superglue (Cyanoacrylate)
   

   There are many different brands, and often several types within those brands. It ranges from really thin and fast setting, to thicker and slower setting (often described as gap-filling). Generally, the thinner stuff gives a stronger bond, but the surfaces need to fit together much better than for the thicker glue. For this reason, I prefer the gap-filling one. Another reason for preferring the gap-filling one is there is a little time for repositioning (or separating what’s been accidentally stuck) while it sets. Be very careful with your glue … lack of air is what makes it set, so as a friend of mine put it, a drop on the table will sit there lurking in wait, looking all innocent, just waiting for you to put something on it. The glue left in the bottle will last better if you keep it in the fridge.
   

5. Craft mat (or cardboard)
   
   You need something to protect your table from your knife … a craft mat is perfect, but several layers of cardboard with work almost as well. If whatever you are using is small, you might wish to use some paper to protect a larger area from glue.
   
6. Ordinary table knife
   
   This is just an ordinary knife, used to more easily separate the Heroscape™ mini from its base with pegs still attached. Using the craft knife for something requiring this much force would be very dangerous.

Step 3. Prepare the DDM base.

• Hold the base vertically against the cutting mat, carefully cut the mini off level with the base, under the feet.
  
• Neaten up the top of the base if you need too.
  
• Flip the base over, and carefully cut or scrape off the details on the bottom. (Removing the name is required, removing the rest just makes it neater). A word of warning, because of the angle you are cutting on, the knife is quite likely to slip, so you need to be extra careful with it.

Step 4. Separate the Heroscape™ mini from the base.

• First flip the mini over and take a look at where the pegs are connecting it to the base. Try just pulling it at an angle to remove it.
  
• If it doesn’t easily separate, use your table knife to slide in under the mini and lever it off.

Step 5. Remove the pegs.

• Hold the mini so you are cutting vertically towards the mat, and cut the pegs off the bottom of the Heroscape™ mini. Also make sure you remove any of the paper base that might stick out at the side, or be visible through a clear mini.
  
• The cut needs to be as flat as you can make it.

Step 6. Glue the mini to the base.

• Check that the mini sits flat on the base. (Adjust it with your knife if needed).
  
• If your mini has feet, put a drop or 2 of glue out onto a scrap of plastic, dip the bottom of the feet into the glue, then carefully stick it to the base.
  
• If you are gluing a larger area, put the glue directly onto the underside of the mini, then put the figure onto the base.
  
• Hold it in place until it is set (probably 30 seconds or a minute, if using gap filling glue).

Step 7. Enjoy your new mini.

• If you want the base to look neater, cover it with some black paint.

Method 2: Using the Pegs

For large minis, particularly if the area of attachment is not large, you’ll get a better connection by using the pegs on the mini, rather than cutting it flat and gluing. Clear minis will look better if you paint the underside of the mini white (or a matching colour) before attaching it to the black base, but doing this would stop the glue from sticking properly … to get round this, you can use the pegs to attach it. In addition to the other supplies, you’ll also need a drill bit the same size as the pegs, and some spare paint.


Follow the instructions from the first method through to step 4, then:

Step 8. Tidy up the underneath of the mini.

• Trim off any extra glue, or Heroscape™ paper base that’s on the underneath of the mini.
  
• We are aiming for relatively clean and flat.
  
• If you are using a clear mini, it will look better if you paint the underside white or a matching colour, so you don’t see the black base through it.

Step 9. Drill holes for the pegs.

• Check that the pegs will all fit on the base, and workout where the mini needs to be placed.
  
• Put a blob of paint onto a scrap of paper or carton, then dip the ends of the pegs into it.
  
• Lightly place then remove the mini from the base to mark the position of the pegs.
  
• Wipe the paint off the pegs before it dries.
  
• Carefully drill out the marked spots, the plastic is soft enough to do it with a hand drill (and you have much better control than using a powered drill).
  
• Check the fit of the pegs into the holes, use a larger drill bit (or your knife) to carefully enlarge the holes if needed.

Step 10. Glue the mini to the base.

• Put the base flat on a clean place of your craft mat and check the fit of the mini again.
  
• Put some glue around each peg, and under the mini where it will touch the base.
  
• Glue the mini to the base, placing the pegs in the holes and hold it till it is set (30 seconds or a minute). If your mini has feet, you might need to use something to push the pegs into the holes, just be careful of the glue leaking around the edge.
  
• Turn the mini upside down and check that it looks stuck, add a little more glue from the underneath if anything looks like it needs it.
  
• Let it dry properly.

Step 11. Enjoy your new mini.